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Regency

Jane Austen Evening and Laughing Moon #138

Dancing is back! Last night I attended the Jane Austen Evening (my second large event in the same month!). Dances were danced, cookies were eaten, photos were took.

I used Laughing Moon pattern #138 for my dress, with long stays (#LM115) and a bodiced petticoat (#LM132) underneath. Seriously, you can’t go wrong with Laughing Moon Regency patterns! They are high quality with great instructions, they sew up beautifully and work together well.

I was aiming for c.1820 for this ensemble, and the pattern worked perfectly for that. It has the slightly lower waistline and the trapezoidal (a-line) skirt emblematic of the decade. I made Renaissance inspired puffy sleeves with sleeve puffs, which were really the only tricky part of the dress, but the instructions laid out the process clearly.

The sleeves get individually faced and turned, similar to bound buttonholes, and then the gathered puffs get whipped in by hand to the openings. I did add an additional flatlining of my thin taffeta after the puffs were inserted, both to act as more support and to protect the underside of the sleeve from getting my hands caught in the openings.

The backside of my main fabric has lots of delicate “floats” from the weave design and I needed a little more oomph to the body of the skirt, so rather than making a separate petticoat (in addition to the bodiced petticoat) I opted to fully line the skirt with more cream taffeta. I honestly hate dealing with how many layers are involved with historical costuming (oops? I don’t think I’m supposed to admit that) and a lining both protects the skirt and simplifies things for me. I prefer lining modern dresses and skirts to wearing slips, too.

Other details: I lowered the neckline of the “low” neckline an additional 1″, shortened the skirt 2″, and added drawstrings to the neckline and the waist. The bustpoint is a little high on me, so if I make this again I’ll lower the dart point 1″ and maybe split the dart into 2.

Wig: Styled by me; Jewelry: Monet; Reticule, Shoes, Gloves: Amazon

Little White Regency Dress

When I was writing up my post about my green Regency spencer, I wanted to link to a post about my Little White Regency Dress, but realized I had started it but never published it! oops. 🙂

I have wanted a white Regency dress for years and years, and last year finally got around to making one. I love having basic pieces that can be styled different ways, and I think I’ve maximized this one to the utmost!

I used Past Patterns #031, and it definitely lived up to the hype. This is such a good style, and I see why the pattern is so popular. It goes together well, is comfortable, and flattering on just about everyone.

My version is made with rayon, which is a little drapey but is nice and lightweight. Not HA, but I’ve never yet had anyone comment that the fiber isn’t accurate to the period. It’s hard to tell in these photos, but it’s a white on white stripe, which gives it a little character without being distracting.

You can see now why I wanted a little white dress! Just by changing up my accessories, I can have a dramatically different look. It’s a perfect blank canvas for all kinds of styles, for daytime or evening.

Green Regency Spencer

I have projects to share! I’ve been working on so many other things lately (like the new Bon Voyage Sewing Podcast!) that I’ve gotten a little behind on updating this blog. So now I have a little catch up to do!

In my last post I showed how to fit a bodice, and today I want to share the “finished” jacket! “Finished” gets quotes because it is wearable, but I plan to endlessly add trim to it. And maybe closures, so I don’t have to use safety pins every time I wear it. 😉

Green Regency-era spencer first worn to the Jane Austen Spring Assembly with the Historical Tea and Dance Society.

I made this green spencer using Fig Leaf Pattern #216 for the body and Laughing Moon #130 for the sleeves. I decided to simplify the sleeves because I had a limited amount of fabric and time, and really wanted to focus on the trim. It’s green silk taffeta, lined with brown silk taffeta, and interlined with linen to give it a nice body/weight. The collar is machine tailored, and I did the trim on it before sewing it together because it was easier.

I made self rouleaux trim by hand, which is absolutely nuts, but also looks great. I only managed to get the collar trim done for its first outing, but I plan to add more over time to the front, back, and sleeves. It will probably take me YEARS to finish! If I ever do!

How to Fit a Bodice

Last night I started fitting a late Regency-era spencer, and I snapped some photos of the process. I LOVE fitting. It’s my favorite part of sewing, but of course fitting on one’s self is hard. I use my Uniquely You foam dress form with stays and all the underpinnings to fit garments for myself, and it works really well, even better than the dress form does for modern clothes. (But at least modern clothes have fewer foundation garments, so fitting on myself is a little easier/faster.)

I’m using the Fig Leaf Patterns® 216 Velvet Spencer, c. 1818 pattern, which I’ve admired since I first spotted it. So far I like it quite a bit – pieces seem to match, thorough instructions, etc. These fitting changes in my photos have nothing to do with the quality of the pattern – they are quite minimal fit adjustments and are normal for fitting any garment to a unique body. (My only complaint is that she doesn’t do PDF patterns, which means I don’t get my instant gratification and have to wait a week after ordering for the pattern to arrive!)

https://www.etsy.com/listing/616096838/fig-leaf-patterns-216-velvet-spencer-c?ref=shop_home_active_20&crt=1

I cut out a size 12 mockup based on the size chart and pinned it together to do a quick check, and it’s the right size. The back looks good, but the front needs a little help. This is just the back and 2 fronts, no other pieces are involved yet.


Step 1: Align Center Front. To do this, I unpinned the dart, put CF where it should be, and redraped the dart. You can see this created a little gapping at the neckline.


Step 2: To eliminate the gapping, I unpinned the shoulder seam and smoothed it out and repinned, which means the front and back shoulder seams are out of alignment, so I’ll have to add more to the front neckline to true that up. (looking at the photos, I realized I could have pinched out that excess like a dart, and then removed the excess from the pattern. I might go back and do that, because it’s probably easier than futzing with the neckline.)


Step 3: After addressing the CF alignment in step one and the shoulder/neckline in step 2, it’s time to look at the armhole. There was quite a bit of strain and the armhole is too far back for me (because I have terrible 21st century posture, not the shoulders WAY back posture of the early 19th century). So I redrew the armhole and clipped the curve to release the tension. There is still a little strain, but I don’t want to go too far at this stage. I’ll check it again in my fashion fabric, and I might interface the body to keep that shape and prevent it from collapsing.


Step 4: I futzed with the dart a bit more and called it good. I’ll probably drape that dart on my form when I get to that stage in my real fabric.


I didn’t make any changes to the back piece or the sideseam (other than lowering the armhole height a bit). Now I plan to adjust the front pattern, recut, and baste the front and back together. Then I will check the collar, and after that, the sleeve.

Short Hair and Historical Costuming

Avoiding the hair issue altogether at the 2018 Jane Austen Evening by wearing a turban.

I have short hair. I’ve always had more-or-less short hair – the longest I’ve ever been able to grow it was just past my shoulders. I used to try to keep it as long as I could for playing vintage dress-up, but on a daily basis it wasn’t cute. My hair is fine, and thin, and really just wants to be short. (On the plus side, it takes a heat curl really well, so I can work some magic with a curling iron.)

The thing is, until recently I also had a wig/fake hair phobia. Things like fake hair and fake nails just really grossed me out and I wanted nothing to do with them. Which is a challenge when you want to participate in historical costuming, because not only does fake hair make it easier when you don’t have much of your own, but it’s also much easier to plop a pre-styled wig on your head than spend hours leading up to an event trying to do an elaborate, archaic hairdo on yourself.

I think (hope!) that I’ve gotten over my fear of fake hair, but I’ve also been having fun this past year experimenting with short historical hairstyles. I plan to do full outfit posts about all these costumes in the near future, but I thought it would be fun to look at just the hairstyles together. Apologies for the poor quality of many of the images – I don’t usually think my hair is anything special so I usually skip close-ups, so most of these photos are cropped down from full length images.


For Friday night at Costume College, I dressed in a French Empire style called a la victime, which was fashioned after the chopped-off hair that the aristocracy had to endure before going under the guillotine. The image on the left was my inspiration (I can’t find the original image source – if you can direct me to it, please let me know!). The center image is the excellent trial that my hairdresser did for me (the great/terrible thing about short hair is that you get to visit your hairdresser often, and mine has been helping me with some of these unusual styles). On the right is my final version from Costume College, which is probably too coiffed and attractive, and I realize that my hair is technically too LONG for this style! I don’t get to say that often.


This set of images is from a couple different nights at Camp Hollywood. Left and center are from “Cabaret Night”, so in a nod to Weimar Berlin I wore a man’s suit and fingerwaved my hair. The photo on the right is from the very next night, when my husband and I participated in a swing dance tribute performance for the 90th anniversary of the Venice Beach Clip. No way am I ever gonna have hair as long and thick as Genevieve Grazis, and no way am I ready for dancing with fake hair, but I can still do some good curl fluff and wear a big bow for the right effect. As a non-hair-person who has had to become somewhat adept with her hair, it blows my mind to look at this set of photos and see that the exact same haircut can produce such different looks.


Irene and Vernon Castle image source from The Whirl of Life (1915).

This final short hair look was what I wore to the Great War Gallop. This style was loosely inspired by Irene Castle, who led the bob trend by chopping off her hair in all the way back in 1914! Again, for this style, I just used a curling iron all over and sculpted my “curl fluff” into an appropriate shape/silhouette for the period.


Do you have short hair? How do you handle it when playing historical dress-up? Are there other short hair icons I should attempt to emulate?

Regency Reticule – HSF #4 (Embellish)

I’m racing to the finish with this challenge, slipping in this blog post at the 11th hour! I’ll try to do better with my next one. For the Embellish challenge, I decided to finish an embroidery Regency reticule (drawstring purse) that I started at Costume College 2011. (Soon you’ll start noticing a theme with my HSF projects – I’m trying to use as many UnFinished Objects as possible!)

I love this project – I had wanted to learn embroidery for a long time but never found a book I liked on it, so when Beginning Embroidery was offered as a class at CoCo, I jumped at it. The purse is cute and easy to make, I love the off-white and green, and I’m a sucker for initials.

I embroidered both side of the purse so that I could have more practice with the stitches, and I think that was good – it wasn’t until halfway through the second side that I could pick up the project and start right in with the handstitching, my hands remembering what to do on their own.

The Challenge: #4 Embellish – Decorations make the historical garment glorious. Whether you use embroidery, trim, pleating, lace, buttons, bows, applique, quilting, jewels, fringe, or any other form of embellishment, this challenge is all about decorative detail.

Fabric: Silk Dupioni

Pattern: Embroidered Regency Reticule: A Kit for Beginners by Catherine Scholar

Year: 1810-1815

Notions: Embroidery floss, Tassels, Cording

How Historically Accurate is it: Good enough for me! As far as I know, slubby silk dupioni was considered inferior quality at this time, but I think it existed. I think the trim has rayon and/or poly, and the bag itself is 100% machine sewn – EVEN the one visible seam. (*gasp*)

Hours to Complete: Many good hours spent in front of the tv, 2 or 3 to make the bag.

First Worn: Maybe I’ll use it at Costume College this year? No other Regency events on my horizon.

Total Cost: The class and kit was $20 or less (can’t remember) — a STEAL!